Vietnam: The Return

During my childhood, my father often spoke of his almost unimaginably harrowing experience as a radio operator in the Vietnam War. He spoke of mines, missiles, jungle rats and venemous spiders, torrential rains, and the overarching sadness and sorrow of watching death, decay and misery. For him and his friends, it was not about winning a war, it was about surviving it. 

As a child, when listening to these tales of woe and desperation in the dense jungles of the Asha Valley, all of the thoughts I could muster dwelled on that Vietnam must have been some form of Hell. In my peaceful life in the USA, I couldn't even fathom what that must have been like. All I could picture was Hell...Vietnam must be Hell.

Several years ago, one of my best friends told me that he was looking forward to a trip to Vietnam with his Vietnamese girlfriend. My instant reaction was, "Why?? How could that possibly be relaxing or fun in any reality??!" It took my brain a moment to jolt itself out of this program I had made for it. Because of its association with my father's war experience, I had filed Vietnam under an undeservingly negative category in my mind. Of course, the war had long since ended. I had heard that Vietnamese were quite welcoming to Americans despite the atrocities the U.S. Government committed against the Vietnamese as well as its own people. My father and many other young men, as well as countless Vietnamese men, women and children, were forced into a senseless battle. They were all victims of extremely shitty decisions made in Washington D.C. They created the "Hell."

Vietnam, in fact, was a beautiful place and my friend had an amazing time visiting it. Then, when the opportunity to visit Vietnam this summer presented itself for me and my wife and child, I emailed my
 father if he would approve a visit. His response was a strong endorsement. He wrote, "By all means go with your beautiful family to Vietnam and represent your family in a display of peace and respect for the Vietnamese people." After receiving this message from my father, this visit to Vietnam went from being an idea to being a mission. My little family became "ambassadors of the Tices" as my oldest brother Matt put it. My father even told me that he would go if his health were better. And after two weeks in Vietnam, I had to refile this country in my brain under "beautiful" and "peaceful".

The pictures posted below will take you from Saigon to Da Nang, and all the way up to Hanoi. Needless to say, watching my father's granddaughter, 46 years after my father left Da Nang barely alive, playing and laughing with little Vietnamese children was extremely healing for me and I hope the rest of my family. The truth is that war affects everyone, not just the soldiers, everyone, for generations. It has a rippling affect, that energy. As humans, we cannot afford to demonize others, whether they have different ideologies, languages, color of skin, sexual preference, etc. The U.S. Governernment demonized a government foreign to their own, and unfounded hate and violence resulted...as it often does when people are unwilling to see through the eyes of others. The greatest human skill is empathy and with failure to adhere to it, we create our own Hell.

So, we send Pea, dressed in rainbows, to make peace. Our first stop is Saigon. 

 

       My father's granddaughter playing with a little Vietnamese girl...doesn't get any better than this.

In many ways, Saigon reminded us a lot of Jakarta, Indonesia. Condensed, smelly, crowded, but kind people and interesting things to see and do. 

This is how I like to experience different cultures.

I can't really hide the fact I love pho. I ate pho every single day for the entire 15 days we were in Vietnam and I have no regrets. 

We stayed in a French teacher's apartment for our first few days, a far cry away from any touristy areas just how we like it. This was the location of some of the most delicious street food I have ever tried. It is hard to describe, but our first meal in Vietnam was a sort of egg/seafood crepe with dipping sauces and an assortment of veggies all for about $1 USD. 

I waited one day to see if I got diarrhea from it, then we went back for more!

French/Vietnamese culinary fusion created Banh Mi, the most delicious sandwich known to man. 

Strange to see the Notre Dame in Saigon...a not so subtle reminder of the colonial era

Notre Dame

This Post Office was designed by Eiffel himself in the 1890's. 

The cool part is the Central Post Office is it is free to enter and it is full functional. We sent out some postcards to family and went on our merry way.

Beer on ice is the norm. Not a bad idea in the heat actually. 

Even better idea for hydration. 

I think what we loved most about Saigon were the enormous parks, both lush and well kept. Pea had a ball playing on the big toys and running around the fields of Tao Dan Park. 

Across the street from the War Rembrant's Museum was 2 Ti Quan, our favorite little luncheon hosted by a wonderful staff. They were so kind to Pea, we went back several times to visit. 

Pea loved her friends at 2 Ti Quan. Pea especially enjoyed playing with Zum, who we remain in contact with via Facebook.

One of the most intense experiences I've had in my life was visiting the War Rembrant's Museum, showcasing what is referred to as "The American War" in Vietnam. The US government really f****ed up.

I cried for about 30 minutes and then bounced. It was almost too much, especially the Agent Orange room.

We have to vote for politicians that don't subscribe to the belief Americans should police the world. 

Dormant US Mines and missiles, deployed decades ago, still take the limbs of farmers and other innocents all across Asia even today. 

This lovely building is where the American War ended. 

The Reunification Palace and my face, a classic combo. 

Andrea looking beautiful at Ben Thanh market. 

Anthony Bourdain recommended this spot on "No Reservations". The Lunch Lady was amazing.

An assortment of appetizers followed by some amazing pho. We just missed seeing Anthony Bourdain by 10 years or so. 

We got there just in time to avoid a major downpour. Great moment to be served soup.

I had a hankering for a clamburger. Get it?? Clamburger!! Hahahaha! So funny. So freakin funny.

Pea is cute everywhere we go. 

Tao Dan Park is a really nice getaway from the hustle and bustle of Saigon. We went back several times. 

A very nice walk with my girls.

If only I had a dragon shaped bush....hmmm that didn't sound right. 

You poop in the park one time and they send a team in. I am really sorry...but not that sorry.

Outside the park, this is what you see. As we say in Jakarta, "macet," traffic. 

Someone told me that Beer Lao is the best beer in Asia. They weren't kidding. I couldn't recommend this creamy beer enough. 

After Saigon, we journeyed to Da Nang and then Hoi An. It was rainy the first few days, but Pea made the most of it.

She's cute. What can you say? Hallmark card worthy. 

Blowing bubbles is an excellent way to pass the time as Mom and Dad shop for tailor made clothing. Hoi An is famous for its artistry and fashion. Andrea was in heaven!

People were very kind everywhere we went. 

The highlight of our Hoi An adventure was the pleasure of staying with Ny and her wonderful family at the Village Moon Homestay. 

Riding bicycles with my family through rice paddies to the beach on the South China Seas...major highlight of my life. 

Pea's favorite part of the trip. 

Warm, tropical waters, with a mountainous landscape. 

The Village Moon Homestay provided free bikes and even fitted us with a seat for Pea.

She's a big goof. But so are we...so she had no choice from birth. 

Some parts of Hoi An reminded me of the Pacific Northwest. 

Trying to get Pea to smile for our family portrait was impossible even after 25 tries...but we do have this time lapse now. 

Pea and her friend at the Village Moon Homestay.

We rode bikes all over Hoi An. With limited traffic and flat roads, it was a very pleasant mode of transportation. 

We spent several days just chillin on the beach. 

We bounced Penelope over the waves over and over, with her giggling every time. 

Then I got buried. 

That's one way to get a-head. Bahahahaa. 

At one point, Penelope walked behind the counter of a store and started pretending to run it. She grabbed a calculator and began selling dresses. Sadly, she ran the business to the ground in a matter of minutes. We had to get out of town soon after that. 

Penelope getting tatted up!

She started looking tough with her Hello Kitty tat. Getting all crazy, and mean all of a sudden. I wouldn't say the tattoo changed her, but I was afraid of her after that. Luckily, it was a temporary tattoo and things returned to normal in a few days. 

Last few days, we spent riding around the rice fields. Words cannot express how beautiful this place was. So look at the pictures and you'll know. 

That's my cool guy look, which I pull off once a year right before I fart and ruin it. 

Vietnam is amazing.

If I could recommend anywhere to go in Vietnam, I would fly into Da Nang and spend a week in Da Nang and Hoi An. 

Pea loved playing with her friends at Village Moon Homestay.

These wonderful people really took good care of us. 

Now onto Da Nang. About a 30 minute cab ride from Hoi An are the Marble Mountains.

The Marble Mountains were amazing.

Loosely translated, "Daniel was here".

The Marble Mountains contain relics as old as 400 years. It was amazing.

Pea really enjoyed all of the sights.

Climbing around cliffs and caves was a bit of a challenge with a 2 year old. 

Andrea. I married an amazing woman. What a strong and adventurous spirit she has. 

These caves and mountains are comprised of marble and limestone. They are equisite and when you reach the top, you see views of Da Nang and the China Seas. 

I nearly rang this bell, but one of the guards warned me ringing it at the wrong time would release an evil spirit. At this news, I quickly put down the gong and moved away. 

Many interesting sights within the caves.

There was a "heaven" cave and a "hell" cave. I can only imagine which one this was. 

 The five 'mountains' are named after the five elements; Kim (metal), Thuy (water), Moc (wood), Hoa (fire) and Tho (earth).

Finding Buddhas became one of Penelope's favorite games. She kept saying, "I love Buddha."

Pea and her mommy.

The Marble Mountains were quite spectacular. 

You had a choice of hiking all the way up or taking an elevator for an extra few dollars. We recommend walking, as there are many sights that you miss if you decide to skip the hike. 

We kept comparing this experience to being in an Indiana Jones movie. 

Pea again stoked to see a Buddha. 

The Tices having the time of their lives.

Pea really liked Hotei, the laughing Buddha. We ended up buying her her very own Hotei trinket. 

Like in Indonesia, many Vietnamese families included Penelope in their photographs. She was gracious at times, but not always. 

I like pretty flowers. This does not make me any less manly, or so I hope. 

All of these pictures of the Marble Mountains took place only over a few hours. 

After a challenging hike, we decided to chow down on some ??? What is that??? Almost like bubble tea meets mystery food. 

Tuna Tostada, thank-you Chu Hotel for making the most delicious food in the world. 

Met this guy from Olympia, Washington, also an ex-pat teacher living in Da Nang. Small world!

Andrea and I ended our night on the beach, sipping on some brews, reflecting on a perfect day in Da Nang. 

We flew VietJet airlines throughout Vietnam, a cheap and much quicker alternative than taking trains or buses. Now onto Hanoi!

This is Hoan Kiem lake, a major focal point in the city of Hanoi where legend has it, a turtle god came and requested a sword from the then Emperor Lợi. It is known as the "Lake of the Returned Sword". Apparently, soft-shelled turtles still inhabit the lake and bestow luck upon those fortunate enough to see them. 

After a four hour bus ride from Hanoi, we boarded the Paloma to explore Ha Long Bay. In Vietnamese, it means "Bay of the Descending Dragon". 

The crew of the La Paloma adored Penelope. 

Ha Long Bay is a must for anyone travelling around Hanoi. There are nearly 2000 different islands in the area and hundreds of species of fish that sustains a pretty lucrative fishing industry. The islands are largely comprised of limestone and all feature jungle vegetation.

We stayed overnight and it was quite nice.

History has recorded many battles in this area as these waterways connect Northern Vietnam with Southern China. It was also mined by the United States during the "American War". 

There were many fun activities to take part in on the La Paloma cruise including a kayak ride to a floating village.

While Pea and I napped, Andrea went on a little adventure. 

Pea on a boat.

We really enjoyed the cruise, but it was a bit short and hurried. If we had to do it again, we would have likely chosen the 2 night deal. 

Fun group of people from all over the world. 

We witnessed a beautiful sunset on the Ha Long Bay. 

Pea met a very friendly Chinese girl named Katy. They played throughout our visit. 

Another view of the gorgeous sunset. 

Happy couple enjoying the amazing views...and 1 complimentary cocktail. 

We got to plug in our iPod and rocked some Bob Marley as we drifted along the bay. The other passengers agreed this was the proper mood music. 

Ethereal beauty. 

The Sung Sot caves or Suprise Grotto are one of the more interesting sights along the bay. The French supposedly discovered it a little over 100 years ago. 

Mommy and daughter cave explorin and kissin. 

View from the Sung Sot caves.

Another successful family adventure.

Along the journey, we also stopped for some Dong Jewelry...I was saddened to learn they meant the money type of "Dong". 

Pea and Katy parting ways. They had a very nice travel friendship. 

Small world! Our sister Olivia's friend and our Facebook friend Raquel was visiting Vietnam from Japan.

We enjoyed a night of German beer and laughter at a Western style restaurant. We plan on meeting up with Raquel again in Japan!

This is the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, about 1000 years old and site of the very first university in Vietnam. 

This university was run in the Confucian tradition, statuettes of Confucius adorn the entire site. 

This is the mystical soft shelled turtle, part of the Hoan Kiem Lake lore. 

The Temple of Literature was quite beautiful. 

Having a moment at the Temple of Literature, just a short walk from our hotel. 

After several days of sightseeing, we decided to take a break and spend a day by the pool. 

This break of course lent itself to some family selfies. 

This is the street we stayed at, home of a busy night market with many interesting foods to try. Can't go wrong with the 25 cent beer on tap either. 

One more picture of the daily dose of Pho, best soup ever. 

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is behind us where lies the final resting place of the contraversial leader. He requested to be cremated, but the Vietnamese interestingly ignored that request and put him in that building instead. 

Near the Mausoleum was the Ho Chi Minh Museum, which we can highly recommend for its many strange art pieces and interesting historical artifacts. 

Very interesting displays at the Ho Chi Minh Museum.

Another interesting display. 

Pea befriending a guard near the Royal Palace in Hanoi. 

Near our hotel was a delicious juice vendor. We spent many afternoons in Hanoi sitting under a mysting fan, sipping on fresh smoothies. Pea is pointing at green oranges, which we thought were delicious. 

This lunch was at a restaurant called Koto Van Mieu, an establishment that trains underpriviliged and troubled youth. We were happy to support their business, and plus, it may have been the most delicious food we ate in Vietnam. It is very close to the Temple of Literature if you are ever in Hanoi!

Koto Van Mieu dessert was like music. 

Okay, our last street food in Vietnam was maybe the best. I believe it was called Bun Cha and it literally cost us 1 USD. 

The meal involved a brothy soup and kabob meat, rice noodles, fresh vegetables and chili. I would fly to Hanoi right now just to eat that again. We ate street food all over Vietnam for two weeks straight and never got diarrhea once. We deem it safe and delicious! 

Last stop before heading to Thailand. Pea makes friends everywhere she goes!

Cheers to Vietnam, one of the most amazing places we have ever been. What a privilege it was to see the beauty of this place, to add these healing memories into the consciousness of my family.