Myanmar - A Visit to "The Golden Land"

Myanmar (AKA Burma) was high on our list of places to visit. Many of our friends had lived and taught at international schools in Yangon. Over the past few years, they had spoken very highly of this country, to its natural beauty, storied culture, and welcoming people. Indeed, we were aware of Myanmar's recent history, opening its once strictly ruled borders to tourism, employing a newly minted democratic form of government. Needless to say, our curiosity was sparked.

In October, I located a great deal on Air Asia and our plans began to take shape for a spring break adventure in Myanmar for the following March. However, while these exciting plans took shape, a more wistful feeling began to emerge. After nearly 15 months of living abroad, it finally hit us. We began to feel a sting, a terrible longing for our family, an undeniable feeling of homesickness. Andrea felt it particularly strong, and although I knew it impossibly expensive, I began to look for a way to send the three of us back to Washington State for a much needed visit. For weeks, I secretly looked for affordable deals. Nothing. Then an idea. What if Andrea's Mom, Bonnie, was able to come to Jakarta? That would change things. Weeks of secret texts between Bonnie and I set the stage for a Christmas surprise. Mom would join us in Myanmar for our spring break!!!

 

Mother and daughter are reunited after a year and a half. Can't hug on FaceTime. 

Penelope savored every moment of Grandma time.  

After a few days in Jakarta, we were soon on our way for an adventure in Burma. I'm not sure if I'm posing here or was just caught spacing out...but if that's how I look spacing out, that might have to be my new pose...hmmm...

Since Burma won its independence in 1948 from the British, the country has suffered through a turbulent history marked by violence and acts of repudiation against human rights. While the conquering British were certainly cruel Imperialists, the military government that usurped English rule seemed to imitate their colonial oppressors all too well. Only in the last eight years, with the help of the revolutionary humanitarian, Aung San Suu Kyi, has the country shifted toward a democratic society and consequently, a more peaceful way of life.

 

Our travel companion on the front left is our good friend Judy, an Australian teacher who had visited Burma nearly thirty years earlier. She mentioned that on her previous visit, the country was considerably more difficult to traverse. Not only was the country far less accessible to travelers, but the travel Visa itself was limited to just seven days. Judy also mentioned that in order to ensure a safe travel experience, many government officials required special payments that typically included Johnnie Walker Whiskey and boxes of Marlboro Reds.

In opening it's doors to visitors, Myanmar is now in a state of transformation, with new hotel chains and restaurants popping up throughout the country to support the burgeoning tourist industry. Still interestingly, this would be the first country I have ever visited that did not have a McDonald's or anything remotely Western besides pizza on a few menus...which is really a great thing. I hope it stays that way.

One of our first stops in Yangon (formally called Rangoon by the British, likely because they misunderstood the local Burmese accents) was the Chauk Htat Gyi Buddha.

At 66 meters or 216 feet long, the Buddha was quite mesmerizing.

Buddha selfie.

 

After spending time in Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia, Penelope felt quite at ease once again exploring Buddhist temples. To our surprise and joy, Penelope prayed to Buddha throughout our trip. We did not teach her to do this, but she gave thanks everywhere we went. This was not a game to her either. Penelope was rather insistent, and entirely serious many of the times we witnessed her do this.

This picture depicts one of many thanaka stands you see throughout Burma. Used mostly by women and children, thanaka is a yellowish paste made through grounding up bark with water. The Burmese use it as a cooling agent in the heat, sunblock, and as both an anti-itch and anti-fungal treatment.

The ladies regularly used thanaka throughout our trip. They spoke very highly of it, as it not only helped their skin stay cool in the heat, but it also seemed to repair the damage done by the many mosquitoes that tormented us in Yangon. Apparently, Burmese women have used the healing powers of thanaka for several thousand years.

Thanaka, you rock...a...

Penelope applying some thanaka to her face.

Besides using thanaka, many locals chew betel, which is often mixed with tobacco for a little extra kick. Regular betel chewers often get orange stained teeth. I tried some for the cultural experience, but did not care for it. It sort of tasted like incense. 

These were our hospitable hosts in Yangon, John and Sarah, both international teachers with young children as well. They had become good friends with our friend Judy while all working abroad in South Korea. Not only did they give us a place to stay, they were extremely helpful in arranging transportation, exchanging our money, recommending places to explore, and to boot, they were very fun to kick it with.

Penelope also made quick friends with John and Sarah's children, Tate and Maisen. They played nonstop throughout our visit.

Burmese bowling was a fun and interesting highlight on our trip to Yangon. On a Friday night, we were literally the only patrons. Our score keepers were two young Burmese boys probably no older than 11, and the bowling equipment was, well, you can see what it was like in the photos.

Judy was on the Right Track 

After a fun night out bowling, we headed to the Shwedagon Pagoda, one of the most sacred sights in Myanmar, said to contain four actual relics from four different Buddhas.

While historians believe the Shwedagon Pagoda was built in the 6th century, locals believe that it was in fact constructed over 2600 years ago. Whatever the actual age, standing 99 meters tall, the golden structure was a marvel to behold. The following website has some more background information regarding the holy significance of the Shwedagon. It is amazing to think how long this structure has survived, through so many wars and natural disasters. http://www.shwedagon.org/history.php

Our new and very kind friend, Phyo Si Thu Thant, a local driver and friend of our hosts, also made our stay in Yangon that much better. He was very knowledgeable regarding local customs, giving us a tour of the amazing things to see and experience in Yangon. Penelope absolutely adored his wife and child as well. On our last day, he presented us with snacks for the road and Penelope with a pink stuffed rabbit that she loves and plays with every day. Chei zu tin ba de, Si Thu!!!

 

Penelope has displayed a strong connection to Buddha throughout her young life.

While the temples we viewed in Myanmar were nothing short of breathtaking, the inside decor was equally dazzling.

Enjoying family time with three generations of strong and beautiful women.

While we peered around the Shwedagon Pagoda, we noticed many cultural rituals taking place including weddings, and many coming of age ceremonies. It was a whirlwind of activity, vivid and vibrant colors and energy pouring in and out, a potpourri of incense and sweat filling our senses while songs of praise from both the past and present met and echoed in harmony along the ancient temple walls.

It is advised that you walk clockwise around the Shwedagon, as there are eight planetary posts that are separated by day of the week (2 for Wednesday). You must know the day of the week you were born on to properly pay homage. Unfortunately, many of us couldn't remember what year we were born, let alone the day of the week.

We met many monks along our travels, many of which were quite friendly and photogenic.

Mom AKA Bonnie was the coolest travel companion. Having never visited Asia, she was a curious and game explorer, ready for anything and everything. To our amusement, Mom often narrated the world around her commenting like a play-by-play on the many spectacles around us. "And there's a box of chickens, and look at that, a guy is cutting the heads off...." :)

Penelope and I keeping it real.

Bogyoke Aung San market was a brief, but interesting stop. However, we were a little too thirsty after our day at the Shwedagon to shop too much.

Built in 1901, the Strand Hotel was a famous colonial era rest stop for British hobnobbers attracting the likes of Rudyard Kipling and more recently, Mick Jagger. 

We all ordered cocktails at The Strand, feeling fancy, and free from the heat in the cool AC.

 

This was the only part of Yangon we didn't care for, the mosquitoes. 

Road to Bagan, part two of our adventure. We took the overnight VIP bus from Yangon to Bagan, eight hours, all of us mostly awake...except Pea.

 

Fortunately, our bus did not look like this. I put this image next to make you think we took this bus!  Our bus was actually very modern and clean...and sort of comfortable.

 

Stumbling off the bus in the dark of night, bewildered, exhausted, and suddenly faced with so many transportation choices. We turned down about five eager cab drivers charging far too many kyat. Then, a horse and buggy driver emerged, offering a ride a bit cheaper. Okay! Why not? Mom was enthusiastic about it, but she was half expecting a ride akin to a Central Park horse and carriage. Instead, with 3 grown adults, a little girl, and about 4 bags on a cart the size of a pizza box, our ride was more like a survival test, our bags dragging along the road as we hung on for dear life. 

Anyway, we made it okay, with our sincerest apologies to the horse.

Our immediate reward for a long night of travel, a sunrise in Old Bagan.

Good morning, kitty.

Not your typical morning, but damn interesting.

After a full day and night of rest, we were at it again...this time on a golf cart.

Cruising Bagan, formerly known as the kingdom of Pagan, hitting it's height of power between the 11th and 13th centuries. After several battles with the neighboring Mongols, the kingdom eventually dispersed throughout Myanmar.

Penelope eventually took my seat, and I was displaced to the back of the golf cart like a bent nine iron. 

Bagan, originally founded in 2nd century CE, was once home to over 10,000 Buddhist temples. And in comparison, Penelope's shirt has about 100 polka dots.

After a Mongolian invasion in 13th century, the Pagan empire fell. Between wars and natural disasters, the 10,000 temples eventually was reduced to a little over 2,000 still standing today. It is still absolutely incredible how many there are. I can hardly imagine what it would have looked like at it's height of power. 

Penelope and Dre posing with some young Buddhist monks.

Penelope really enjoyed running around the temples, each complete with at least one giant Buddha figure. That is the Thatbyinnyu Temple peaking around the corner.  Built in 1150 CE, the Thatbyinnyu is the tallest structure in Bagan at 61 meters.

Here is Mom posing with a golden Buddha. We learned that each Buddha's pose has a specific meaning. The pose of this Buddha includes hand in lap and hands touching the Earth to signify the moment of enlightenment. This is the most common pose you will find.

 

Many of the monks we met were enchanted by our little peanut, often seeking photo ops with her. Unfortunately for this monk, she was not feeling up to it.  Besides some of the local children, there were not many foreign families with young children in Bagan. Penelope was one of the few.

Here are my lovely ladies caged in a temple (first time I've ever said that). Andrea is wearing a longyi, a traditional skirt worn by both men and women. They are meant to cover the legs and feet in respect to the Buddha, and are quite popularly worn throughout Burma.

Said to house the bone and tooth of Siddhārtha Gautama, the Shwezigon Pagoda, with it's gold leaf plated exterior, was nothing short of spectacular.

This is a pre-Buddhist era nat, or spirit, said to bring good luck if you give him money or even make your wish come true if you light a cigarette for him.

We stopped at the Black Bamboo for a nice lunch, charming little respite from hot and dusty Bagan. 

The reason the Mariners have started off so strong in 2016? This photo.

This is a Kayan woman who was working on some weavings. The brass coils around the neck don't actually stretch the neck, but do give that appearance, and are said to mainly be worn for cultural identity. The Kayan tribal territory stretches into Thailand where there is a small population of Kayan people living there as well. 

Another good restaurant was the Star Beam restaurant in Old Bagan. Their tea leaf salad was particularly delicious.



Enjoying some local wine at the Star Beam.

Pea rocking her new Aung San Suu Kyi shirt.

By plane, by golf cart, by truck, by motor bike, by taxi, by bus, by horse, by boat, by foot; we used many types of transportation on this trip. 

Rural Bagan with its many dirt roads. Much of Central Myanmar looks something like this. 

Built in 1105 AE, the Ananda Temple was one of the more impressive temples we saw in Bagan.

Featuring four standing Buddhas, the Ananda Temple was named "Ananda" after the Buddha's cousin and personal secretary. 

There are literally thousands of these plaques adorning the walls of the temple, depicting stories of the life and death of Buddha. 

Then we saw this lifeless scorpion in the temple. For the rest of the trip, I kept my eyes peeled for his surviving family. 

Little Buddhas everywhere, all the way to the ceiling.

Mom and Judy took a tour of the Ananda from a young man with remarkably good English. His accent sounded American too, he said maybe from watching movies. 

Kassapa Buddha, the South facing Buddha, was part of the original construction. When you are up close, it looks sad. However, as you walk backward, a smile appears on his face! It really is quite remarkable and modern architects have been unable to recreate it. 

So much beauty, it was a lot to take in. 

After another amazing day of sight seeing, we took in a lunch right on the Ayeyarwady River, Myanmar's largest river. It is home to all sorts of interesting creatures too, including a saltwater crocodile. 

The Bagan Hotel River View was quite the oasis, encircled by ancient ruins and featuring a scenic view of the river.

In April, many young people dye their hair red for Thingyan, an annual water festival and Burmese New Year. We missed the big day, but apparently the city erupts into an all-out water fight. It is well timed though as April is the hottest month of the year.

Pea-ce!

As aforementioned, Penelope has developed a special relationship with Buddha. Throughout our travels, from Vietnam to Cambodia, she has displayed excitement over finding "Buddhas." On this trip, Penelope's excitement shifted toward more of a reverence. In Burma, she very seriously prayed to Buddha several times, telling us not take photos of her as she did so. Without any of our influence, Penelope mastered traditional Buddhist prayer. What a beautiful little soul.

Originally built in the 3rd century, the Bupaya Pagoda is one of the oldest sites in Bagan. 

On our way to a sunset boat ride, unfortunately a very cloudy sunset boat ride.

Three generations on the Ayeyarwady.

Three Tices on the Ayeyarwady. Another successful family adventure in the books. To winning!

Chinlone is a traditional game played all over Burma. Typically involving what looks almost like a volleyball net, players skillfully kick, knee or head-butt the ball to each other over the net. We learned that the game is typically played without an opposing team, just for fun it seems.

The Chinlone ball is weaved with rattan, a palm found throughout Africa and Asia. The ball shapes vary in size. When Mom misplaced her bag of Chinlone balls, she yelped, "Where's my balls!!?" We all thought this was hilarious and often quote her now.

Big guy on a little bike. You can rent a motor scooter for less than 5 bucks for the day, which is ideal for sight-seeing. 

With Mom watching Penelope, Dre and I went on a scooter adventure, taking in some new spots before leaving back to Yangon the next day.

Mingalazedi Pagoda, built between 1268-1274.

I have no idea which pagoda this is, but I dug the silhouette.

I'm not entirely sure what this temple is called either, but the "Daniel Temple" has an excellent ring to it. However, that is only a suggested title. "Shirley Temple" was already taken. I hope this isn't the second time I've made this joke...I think it might be....shameful.

Things were going great, but then Pea spent the night throwing up. We were supposed to leave that morning, so we postponed our departure and called a doctor. The doctor diagnosed Pea with stomach bacteria and provided some antibiotics. We have learned not to fear being sick while on holiday, as there always seem to be adequate and very inexpensive healthcare wherever we go. This doctor paid a house call for only $40 USD, medication and all. Not a bad price to pay for peace of mind, and peace of stomach.

Penelope was feeling better the next day and we were once again back en route to Yangon. However, it was not the last we heard from this stomach bacteria. Andrea and I would take turns being violently ill on our way back to Jakarta. To us, this was a small price to pay for all the beauty we witnessed. Not only this, but it served as a great diet technique for all the food I ate on the trip.

Each 8 hour bus ride came with an interesting pit stop. I wish I had a peanut bike.

Mystery meats for sale!

Dre is collecting photos of restroom signs throughout the world. This one featured urine! At least, I hope that is urine.

An 8 hour bus ride, two 2-3 hour flights later, we were back home in Indonesia. Pea has become quite the trooper traveling.

Back in Jakarta, we enjoyed a few last days with this amazing lady.

Overall, Myanmar captured our hearts and how wonderful it was to share this experience with Mom. Indeed, we were ecstatic to have family join in the adventure, our first visiting parent, an "ambassador," as she put it, for our other parents. Mom left pretty amazed, and certainly understanding of why we have chosen this life abroad. Upon her departure, she left with these words, "Your world has exploded." :)